An article on pictures-of-cats.org/, Feral Cats.
"This problem is ours. Sometimes you read stories about people complaining about stray cats. Or, when reading blogs or comments on blogs, you notice people making derogatory remarks about stray cats and how they spread disease and upset the neighborhood etc. There is no point moaning about feral cats as if we are blaming the cats for the problem. The problem is ours..."
"Steve Wozniak (Apple founder with Steve Jobs) has teamed up with Humane Society Silicon Valley (HSSV) to heighten awareness of the this problem in the Santa Clara county. He did this by presenting a video now on YouTube. It's very good..." 3:21 video on YouTube
Steve Wozniak and HSSV -Cats Without a Home
Sunday, September 13, 2009
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Chronic Renal Failure (CRF) in Cats
The site below has extensive information.
TANYA'S FELINE CHRONIC RENAL FAILURE
INFORMATION CENTRE
http://www.felinecrf.org/index.htm
Introduction
Hello. My name is Helen. I have had three cats with CRF, Tanya, Thomas and Ollie - you can see their photos at the top of this page. I created this website because I know first-hand how scary the CRF diagnosis is, and how helpless it can make you feel, and I wanted to give people the detailed, practical information which would have helped me when my cats were first diagnosed, all together in one place.
This website is named in honour of Tanya, who was my first CRF cat. Unfortunately Tanya did not receive as much proactive care as Thomas and Ollie, because at the time that she was diagnosed, I did not know about the treatment options described on this website. Thomas, in contrast, had much more severe CRF yet survived longer than Tanya because he received more proactive treatment. Ollie was a somewhat different case: he came to me at the age of fifteen with relatively mild CRF but with a host of other health problems which ultimately took him from me.
If your cat has just been diagnosed with CRF, you may have been told that there is no hope for your cat; your cat may even be in the midst of a crisis, perhaps on intravenous fluids (IV, or a drip) at the vet's. If so, you are probably feeling shell-shocked and frightened; but please take a deep breath and don't give up all hope just yet, because it may be possible to help your cat.
If Your Vet Has Recommended Immediate Euthanasia
Please read the Just Diagnosed? What You Need to Know First page urgently. Unfortunately, some vets are not overly familiar with the latest treatments for CRF, and may recommend euthanasia prematurely. You need to educate yourself and work out how severe your cat's case is before you make this irrevocable decision.
Aims of Tanya's Feline Chronic Renal Failure Site
This site was originally created primarily to help people in the UK, but it has always attracted people from all over the world, perhaps because the site is quite simple in design yet the most comprehensive site available. Having had three cats with CRF, I know first-hand the initial shock of the diagnosis, and am familiar with issues such as persuading a CRF cat to eat, giving them fluids at home, treating anaemia etc. Believe me, I know how you feel. I am English, but I lived in the USA from 2004-2008. I therefore have firsthand experience of feline veterinary care on both sides of the Atlantic. This site shares all the information and tips I know, in great detail, in order to help your cat feel better and hopefully extend his/her life.
I am not a vet. My goal is to describe in layman's terms the symptoms which you may be seeing now or which you may see in the future; to tell you what these symptoms and the bloodwork mean; and, most importantly, to educate you about treatments which can often help; all this from an owner's perspective. The site also aims to cover the emotional aspects of living with CRF and to help you to cope with it, including at the end of your CRF journey. The site provides information on an international basis, aiming to help you wherever you happen to live, although in practice much of the information relates to the USA and Europe since these are the areas where the most information and treatments are available.
Most people who arrive here for the first time have two overwhelming concerns:
they want to know how severe their cat's case is.
they want to know how best to help their cat, and quickly.
I therefore recommend that you read these two pages first:
How Bad Is It?
Key Issues
These pages will get you started quickly so you can hit the ground running. Then, later on, you can gradually get up to speed on CRF in more detail...
Please visit http://www.felinecrf.org/index.htm for more info.
TANYA'S FELINE CHRONIC RENAL FAILURE
INFORMATION CENTRE
http://www.felinecrf.org/index.htm
Introduction
Hello. My name is Helen. I have had three cats with CRF, Tanya, Thomas and Ollie - you can see their photos at the top of this page. I created this website because I know first-hand how scary the CRF diagnosis is, and how helpless it can make you feel, and I wanted to give people the detailed, practical information which would have helped me when my cats were first diagnosed, all together in one place.
This website is named in honour of Tanya, who was my first CRF cat. Unfortunately Tanya did not receive as much proactive care as Thomas and Ollie, because at the time that she was diagnosed, I did not know about the treatment options described on this website. Thomas, in contrast, had much more severe CRF yet survived longer than Tanya because he received more proactive treatment. Ollie was a somewhat different case: he came to me at the age of fifteen with relatively mild CRF but with a host of other health problems which ultimately took him from me.
If your cat has just been diagnosed with CRF, you may have been told that there is no hope for your cat; your cat may even be in the midst of a crisis, perhaps on intravenous fluids (IV, or a drip) at the vet's. If so, you are probably feeling shell-shocked and frightened; but please take a deep breath and don't give up all hope just yet, because it may be possible to help your cat.
If Your Vet Has Recommended Immediate Euthanasia
Please read the Just Diagnosed? What You Need to Know First page urgently. Unfortunately, some vets are not overly familiar with the latest treatments for CRF, and may recommend euthanasia prematurely. You need to educate yourself and work out how severe your cat's case is before you make this irrevocable decision.
Aims of Tanya's Feline Chronic Renal Failure Site
This site was originally created primarily to help people in the UK, but it has always attracted people from all over the world, perhaps because the site is quite simple in design yet the most comprehensive site available. Having had three cats with CRF, I know first-hand the initial shock of the diagnosis, and am familiar with issues such as persuading a CRF cat to eat, giving them fluids at home, treating anaemia etc. Believe me, I know how you feel. I am English, but I lived in the USA from 2004-2008. I therefore have firsthand experience of feline veterinary care on both sides of the Atlantic. This site shares all the information and tips I know, in great detail, in order to help your cat feel better and hopefully extend his/her life.
I am not a vet. My goal is to describe in layman's terms the symptoms which you may be seeing now or which you may see in the future; to tell you what these symptoms and the bloodwork mean; and, most importantly, to educate you about treatments which can often help; all this from an owner's perspective. The site also aims to cover the emotional aspects of living with CRF and to help you to cope with it, including at the end of your CRF journey. The site provides information on an international basis, aiming to help you wherever you happen to live, although in practice much of the information relates to the USA and Europe since these are the areas where the most information and treatments are available.
Most people who arrive here for the first time have two overwhelming concerns:
they want to know how severe their cat's case is.
they want to know how best to help their cat, and quickly.
I therefore recommend that you read these two pages first:
How Bad Is It?
Key Issues
These pages will get you started quickly so you can hit the ground running. Then, later on, you can gradually get up to speed on CRF in more detail...
Please visit http://www.felinecrf.org/index.htm for more info.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Why Cats Need Canned Food
By Jean Hofve, DVM
From Little Big Cat.com
Cats are true carnivores, requiring a meat-based diet for optimal health. Their natural diet is prey such as rodents, lizards, insects, and birds. These prey consist primarily of water, protein and fat, with less than 10% carbohydrate (starch, sugar and fiber) content. Cats are exquisitely adapted to utilize fat and protein for energy. They are not at all like dogs and people, who are adapted to use carbohydrates for energy.
When feeding our companion cats, the most logical strategy is to feed the diet that most closely mimics the natural prey diet. A homemade diet is an excellent way to accomplish this. Feeding more (or only) canned food is another way--one that is often easier for people to deal with. Canned foods are higher in fat and protein, and lower in carbohydrates, than dry foods. Their high water content increases the cat's overall fluid intake, which keeps the kidneys and bladder healthy. The higher fat contributes to skin and coat health. Because the ingredients are more easily digested and utilized by the cat's body, canned foods produce less solid waste in the litterbox.
Another feature of the cat's natural diet is variety. A hunting cat doesn't one day decide to eat only purple finches! He will eat any small prey he can catch: chickadees, mice, grasshoppers, robins, or rabbits. Likewise, we should feed our cats a variety of foods. Variety keeps cats from becoming finicky and food-addicted, lessens the chance of dietary excess or deficiency of any single nutrient, and may prevent the development of food intolerances, allergies, and inflammatory bowel disease. Feeding the same dry food year after year greatly increases the risk of these problems. With canned food, it is easy to vary the flavors and protein sources.
Dry food typically contains 35-50% carbohydrates, mostly as starch. (The new "grain-free" foods may be as little as 20% carbohydrate). This is necessary because the equipment that makes dry food requires a high-starch, low-fat dough for proper processing. Cereal grains provide an inexpensive and plentiful source of calories, which allows manufacturers to produce foods containing adequate calories at an affordable price. A few dry foods provide less carbohydrates, in some cases substituting starchy vegetables and soy for cereal grains; but they are still heavily processed and just as dehydrating (if not more so) than regular dry food.
Adult cats need 2-3 times more protein than dogs. Yet dry cat foods generally supply only about 1/3 more protein than dry dog foods—about 30-35% in dry cat food compared to 20-26% for the average dry dog food. "Kidney" diets for cats in renal failure are even more restrictive with 26-28% protein (such diets should never be fed to normal cats; they will cause muscle wasting as the cat breaks down its own body for protein). Canned cat foods contain 45-50% protein, and canned kitten foods may contain up to 55% protein. (All percentages calculated on a dry matter basis.)
Cats are attracted to food that has a strong meat or fat flavor. Pet food manufacturers go to great lengths to make their starch-based dry foods palatable to cats. They may coat the kibbles with fat or with "animal digest," a powder made of chemically or enzymatically digested animal by-products. The result may be a cat who overeats, not because he's hungry, but because he loves the taste of the food and doesn't want to stop. (I think we've all been there!)
Dry food is very dehydrating. Our feline friends descend from desert-dwelling wild cats who are well adapted to limited water resources. Their ultra-efficient kidneys are able to extract most of their moisture needs from their prey. However, the end result is that cats have a very low thirst drive, and will not drink water until they are 3-5% dehydrated (a level at which, clinically, a veterinarian would administer fluid therapy). Cats eating only dry food take in only half the moisture of a cat eating only canned food. This chronic dehydration may be a factor in kidney disease, and is known to be a major contributor to bladder disease (crystals, stones, FUS, FLUTD, cystitis). Caution: adding water or milk to dry food does not solve the problem; and the fact that there are always bacteria on the surface of dry food means that adding moisture can result in massive bacterial growth--and a very upset tummy.
The high heat used in processing dry food damages (denatures) the proteins in the food. The resulting unnatural proteins may trigger an immune response that can lead to food allergies and inflammatory bowel disease.
There is increasing evidence that carbohydrates (starches and sugars) in dry food are simply not metabolized well by many, if not most cats. While obesity is caused by many factors, the free-choice feeding of dry food to a relatively inactive cat is a major player. Obese cats are prone to joint problems, liver and kidney disease, and diabetes.
Recent research has shown that high-carbohydrate diets are to blame in most cases of feline diabetes. Many overweight cats are carbohydrate-intolerant, and should be fed low-carbohydrate diets (think "Catkins" diet!). This means canned food. Experts are now recommending canned kitten food as the primary treatment for diabetes. Many diabetic cats can decrease or even eliminate their need for insulin, simply by changing to a high-protein, low-carbohydrate diet. Ultimately, canned food may be even more beneficial as a preventative for this devastating disease.
Overweight cats may greatly benefit from a switch to an all-canned diet. Stick to foods containing 10% or less carbohydrate. Many all life stages and kitten foods fit this requirement. Carbs are usually not listed on the label. However, all you have to do is subtract the other ingredients from 100% to get an estimate of the carb content. Most cats lose weight more efficiently on a canned food than dry food diet. Even though they're often eating more calories, these diets are much better suited to the unique feline metabolism.
If your cat is not used to eating canned food, add it to the diet slowly in small amounts. It is so different in composition from dry food that it may cause tummy upset at first.
If a cat won't eat canned food, it's usually because of a dry food addiction, or because he isn't hungry enough to try something new. Start by putting the cat on a meal-feeding schedule, leaving dry food out only an hour each, morning and night. Once he's accustomed to the schedule, put a little canned food down first. Most cats will be willing to try it at that point. (See "Switching Foods" for more information on why and how to make the change.)
Quality is just as important with canned cat food as any other type of food. See this article to learn how to read a label and assess a food's quality for yourself. If possible, buy the food in a larger can, and store leftovers in a glass jar in the refrigerator. Pop-top cans, by-products, and fish flavors of canned cat food have been linked to the development of thyroid disease in cats.
Dry food is a great convenience and may be necessary in some cases when the guardian is gone long hours or cannot feed on a regular schedule. But at least 50% of the diet (preferably 100% if you want to ensure optimum health!) should be a high-protein, high-moisture, low-carb diet such as canned or homemade food. Your cat will be healthier, and while you'll spend a little more on food up front, ultimately you'll save hundreds, if not thousands, on veterinary bills!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For a detailed, 13-page PDF report, "What Cats Should Eat" including a list of Dr. Jean's recommended brands by name, as well as other reports on important health and behavior topics, please visit our Bookstore.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Please visit article online for more article links and ones below)
Links to other online articles about feline nutrition and disease:
Homemade Diet Info at CatNutrition.org
Feeding your cat: know the basics of feline nutrition -- Lisa A. Pierson, DVM
The carnivore connection to nutrition in cats -- Dr. Debra Zoran
Diabetes in Dogs and Cats
Cutting Carbs for Diabetic Cats
Diabetes and Obesity - Dr. Elizabeth Hodgkins
Feline Future (commercial site)
Diet and nutrition in CRF cats
Feline nutrition
Diet and FLUTD
The relation between dental disease and canned food -- Dr. Shawn Messonier
The truth about dry cat food
Article link
http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=whycatsneedcannedfood
Selecting a Good Commercial Pet Food article http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=004
From Little Big Cat.com
Cats are true carnivores, requiring a meat-based diet for optimal health. Their natural diet is prey such as rodents, lizards, insects, and birds. These prey consist primarily of water, protein and fat, with less than 10% carbohydrate (starch, sugar and fiber) content. Cats are exquisitely adapted to utilize fat and protein for energy. They are not at all like dogs and people, who are adapted to use carbohydrates for energy.
When feeding our companion cats, the most logical strategy is to feed the diet that most closely mimics the natural prey diet. A homemade diet is an excellent way to accomplish this. Feeding more (or only) canned food is another way--one that is often easier for people to deal with. Canned foods are higher in fat and protein, and lower in carbohydrates, than dry foods. Their high water content increases the cat's overall fluid intake, which keeps the kidneys and bladder healthy. The higher fat contributes to skin and coat health. Because the ingredients are more easily digested and utilized by the cat's body, canned foods produce less solid waste in the litterbox.
Another feature of the cat's natural diet is variety. A hunting cat doesn't one day decide to eat only purple finches! He will eat any small prey he can catch: chickadees, mice, grasshoppers, robins, or rabbits. Likewise, we should feed our cats a variety of foods. Variety keeps cats from becoming finicky and food-addicted, lessens the chance of dietary excess or deficiency of any single nutrient, and may prevent the development of food intolerances, allergies, and inflammatory bowel disease. Feeding the same dry food year after year greatly increases the risk of these problems. With canned food, it is easy to vary the flavors and protein sources.
Dry food typically contains 35-50% carbohydrates, mostly as starch. (The new "grain-free" foods may be as little as 20% carbohydrate). This is necessary because the equipment that makes dry food requires a high-starch, low-fat dough for proper processing. Cereal grains provide an inexpensive and plentiful source of calories, which allows manufacturers to produce foods containing adequate calories at an affordable price. A few dry foods provide less carbohydrates, in some cases substituting starchy vegetables and soy for cereal grains; but they are still heavily processed and just as dehydrating (if not more so) than regular dry food.
Adult cats need 2-3 times more protein than dogs. Yet dry cat foods generally supply only about 1/3 more protein than dry dog foods—about 30-35% in dry cat food compared to 20-26% for the average dry dog food. "Kidney" diets for cats in renal failure are even more restrictive with 26-28% protein (such diets should never be fed to normal cats; they will cause muscle wasting as the cat breaks down its own body for protein). Canned cat foods contain 45-50% protein, and canned kitten foods may contain up to 55% protein. (All percentages calculated on a dry matter basis.)
Cats are attracted to food that has a strong meat or fat flavor. Pet food manufacturers go to great lengths to make their starch-based dry foods palatable to cats. They may coat the kibbles with fat or with "animal digest," a powder made of chemically or enzymatically digested animal by-products. The result may be a cat who overeats, not because he's hungry, but because he loves the taste of the food and doesn't want to stop. (I think we've all been there!)
Dry food is very dehydrating. Our feline friends descend from desert-dwelling wild cats who are well adapted to limited water resources. Their ultra-efficient kidneys are able to extract most of their moisture needs from their prey. However, the end result is that cats have a very low thirst drive, and will not drink water until they are 3-5% dehydrated (a level at which, clinically, a veterinarian would administer fluid therapy). Cats eating only dry food take in only half the moisture of a cat eating only canned food. This chronic dehydration may be a factor in kidney disease, and is known to be a major contributor to bladder disease (crystals, stones, FUS, FLUTD, cystitis). Caution: adding water or milk to dry food does not solve the problem; and the fact that there are always bacteria on the surface of dry food means that adding moisture can result in massive bacterial growth--and a very upset tummy.
The high heat used in processing dry food damages (denatures) the proteins in the food. The resulting unnatural proteins may trigger an immune response that can lead to food allergies and inflammatory bowel disease.
There is increasing evidence that carbohydrates (starches and sugars) in dry food are simply not metabolized well by many, if not most cats. While obesity is caused by many factors, the free-choice feeding of dry food to a relatively inactive cat is a major player. Obese cats are prone to joint problems, liver and kidney disease, and diabetes.
Recent research has shown that high-carbohydrate diets are to blame in most cases of feline diabetes. Many overweight cats are carbohydrate-intolerant, and should be fed low-carbohydrate diets (think "Catkins" diet!). This means canned food. Experts are now recommending canned kitten food as the primary treatment for diabetes. Many diabetic cats can decrease or even eliminate their need for insulin, simply by changing to a high-protein, low-carbohydrate diet. Ultimately, canned food may be even more beneficial as a preventative for this devastating disease.
Overweight cats may greatly benefit from a switch to an all-canned diet. Stick to foods containing 10% or less carbohydrate. Many all life stages and kitten foods fit this requirement. Carbs are usually not listed on the label. However, all you have to do is subtract the other ingredients from 100% to get an estimate of the carb content. Most cats lose weight more efficiently on a canned food than dry food diet. Even though they're often eating more calories, these diets are much better suited to the unique feline metabolism.
If your cat is not used to eating canned food, add it to the diet slowly in small amounts. It is so different in composition from dry food that it may cause tummy upset at first.
If a cat won't eat canned food, it's usually because of a dry food addiction, or because he isn't hungry enough to try something new. Start by putting the cat on a meal-feeding schedule, leaving dry food out only an hour each, morning and night. Once he's accustomed to the schedule, put a little canned food down first. Most cats will be willing to try it at that point. (See "Switching Foods" for more information on why and how to make the change.)
Quality is just as important with canned cat food as any other type of food. See this article to learn how to read a label and assess a food's quality for yourself. If possible, buy the food in a larger can, and store leftovers in a glass jar in the refrigerator. Pop-top cans, by-products, and fish flavors of canned cat food have been linked to the development of thyroid disease in cats.
Dry food is a great convenience and may be necessary in some cases when the guardian is gone long hours or cannot feed on a regular schedule. But at least 50% of the diet (preferably 100% if you want to ensure optimum health!) should be a high-protein, high-moisture, low-carb diet such as canned or homemade food. Your cat will be healthier, and while you'll spend a little more on food up front, ultimately you'll save hundreds, if not thousands, on veterinary bills!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
For a detailed, 13-page PDF report, "What Cats Should Eat" including a list of Dr. Jean's recommended brands by name, as well as other reports on important health and behavior topics, please visit our Bookstore.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Please visit article online for more article links and ones below)
Links to other online articles about feline nutrition and disease:
Homemade Diet Info at CatNutrition.org
Feeding your cat: know the basics of feline nutrition -- Lisa A. Pierson, DVM
The carnivore connection to nutrition in cats -- Dr. Debra Zoran
Diabetes in Dogs and Cats
Cutting Carbs for Diabetic Cats
Diabetes and Obesity - Dr. Elizabeth Hodgkins
Feline Future (commercial site)
Diet and nutrition in CRF cats
Feline nutrition
Diet and FLUTD
The relation between dental disease and canned food -- Dr. Shawn Messonier
The truth about dry cat food
Article link
http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=whycatsneedcannedfood
Selecting a Good Commercial Pet Food article http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=004
Constipated Cats
Constipated Cats
By Jean Hofve, DVM
From Little Big Cat
http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=constipatedcats
A surprising number of cats have problems with constipation (abnormal accumulation of feces and difficulty defecating), and similar but more serious conditions such as obstipation (complete obstruction of the colon by feces) and megacolon (damaged nerves and muscles in the colon causing an inability to defecate). Constipation is uncomfortable, even painful. Constipated cats may defecate (or try to) outside the litterbox, because they associate pain or discomfort with the box itself. Other signs of constipation include irritability, painful abdomen, lethargy, and poor appetite or even loss of appetite.
The colon, the last part of the intestinal tract, is a large muscular structure ending at the rectum. It contains most of the intestinal bacteria that reside in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. These bacteria finish up the digestion of protein. By-products of this process include short-chain fatty acids that nourish the cells lining the colon. Some of these lining cells absorb water, while others secrete mucus to lubricate the stool and keep it moving along.
Most cats defecate about once a day. A constipated cat may only defecate every 2 to 4 days, or even less. Usually the stools are hard and dry, because their long stay in the colon allows for absorption of most of their water content. However, occasionally a constipated cat can appear to have diarrhea, because liquid stool is the only thing that can get around the stuck mass of feces.
Causes for pooping problems include neurologic problems, pelvic injury, obstruction (by hair, bones, etc.), and Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). (See this article for more info on IBD.) A dirty litter box may cause a cat to avoid the box and become constipated by holding the stool too long. Hooded litterboxes are a particular problem because they hold odor in, potentially making the box environment extremely unpleasant for the cat.
In 15+ years of experience as a feline veterinarian, I have not seen constipation problems in cats who do not eat dry food. It's logical, therefore, to think that diet plays a significant role in development of the problem. (Since writing this article, I have heard from 2 readers whose cats developed constipation problems even on all-wet-food diets; so, it's not impossible, but happily it is fairly rare.) Some cats may need more fiber than is present in very low fiber diets such as most canned, raw and homemade diets.You can always add a pinch of fiber (ground flaxseeds and ground chia seeds, aka Salba, are reasonably palatable and work very well).
Indeed, the initial treatment for constipation is usually a change in diet. Historically, these cats have usually been put on high-fiber dry foods. Fiber modulates intestinal mobility. Depending on the type of fiber and the circumstances, fiber can either speed up or slow down digestion. It's therefore used for both constipation and diarrhea. Light, senior, and hairball foods all contain increased fiber, and there are also several medical high-fiber diets.
Usually the diet change helps, at least initially. However, eventually these foods often seem to lose their effectiveness over time. More fiber, such as canned pumpkin, may be added. Again, sometimes this produces a temporary improvement. Yet most of these cats continue to have problems.
Since fiber encourages water absorption and increases the amount of stool produced (because it is indigestible), many experts have swung the other way and are recommending "low-residue" diets to minimize stool volume. "Low-residue" means that the food is highly digestible and produces minimal waste. Cats digest protein and fat best, but there is controversy about carbohydrates; it is clear that many cats are carb-intolerant. By this theory, the best food would be high fat, high protein, and low fiber, as well as high moisture. One would think that such a food would also be low fiber, but that is not necessarily true. Eukanuba Low Residue dry food contains 4% fiber, which is fairly high. Most canned foods fit this description, as do most homemade diets. However, Eukanuba Low Residue manages to incorporate a large amount of carbohydrate, even in its canned food. Reading the label is an important skill to develop (learn more about it in this article).
Water balance is crucial in constipated kitties. Most vets will give constipated cats subcutaneous (or even intravenous) fluids to boost their hydration.
Treatment for constipation depends on the severity of the problem. For mild cases, occasional enemas may be all they need. For severe blockages, the cat must be anesthetized for manual extraction of the feces (a process my favorite tech graphically but accurately refers to as a "dig-out").
Once the cat is "cleaned out" by whatever means, it's wise to take steps to prevent the problem from recurring. Several options are available; an individual cat may need only one of these, while others need several or all of them.
- Canned or homemade diet. High-moisture diets keep the cat hydrated, and these diets are far more digestible – and produce far less waste – than dry food. Because canned and homemade diets tend to be extremely low in fiber, addition of a small amount of rice bran or powdered psyllium (available in bulk at most health food stores) is helpful.
- Water Fountain. Many cats will drink much more running water than they will ever take from a bowl. There are several types of pet fountains, from "cascades" to "waterfalls" to models that could be from Rome! I first noticed that my cats loved to drink from an inexpensive "feng shui" rock fountain from Bed, Bath & Beyond; but it was too hard to take apart and clean as often as was needed. We like the Drinkwell and PetMate brands.
- Lactulose. This is a sugary syrup that holds water in the stool and keeps the stool soft; therefore it's easier for the cat to pass. Cats are usually not fond of the taste. Fortunately, lactulose now comes in a mild-tasting powder (Kristalose) that can be encapsulated by a compounding pharmacy, or simply added to canned food.
Other stool softeners, such as DSS (docusate sodium). Your veterinarian can prescribe these.
- Petroleum Jelly. The primary ingredient in most over-the-counter hairball remedies (Laxatone, Kat-a-lax, Petromalt), petroleum jelly can be given to the cat by mouth. Most cats tolerate it, many cats come to like it, and a few even enjoy it. The Vaseline brand is, according to my cats, the tastiest; but other cats prefer one of the flavored hairball types. Give 1/3 to 1/2 teaspoon per day. It can also be mixed with a small amount of canned food. However, it can interfere with nutrient absorption so giving it on an empty tummy is best.
- Cisapride (Propulsid). This drug was withdrawn from the market for humans because of dangerous side effects, but it is considered safe for cats. Your vet can order it from a compounding pharmacy. It seems to work best in combination with stool softeners.
- Pediatric glycerin suppositories. Although they may not appreciate having a suppository pushed into their rectums, most cats tolerate it. Your vet can advise you on technique and frequency.
- Enemas. Many cat guardians have gotten good at giving enemas at home. Mineral oil, K-Y jelly, soapy water, and plain warm water are all fine; you may have to experiment to see which one works best for your particular cat.
- Slippery Elm Bark. This powdered herb can be added to canned food (add extra cool water) or made into a syrup. Its mild taste is well tolerated by most cats. See this article for more information. There are many herbal formulas available for people, but many herbs, such as Cascara sagrada, are too harsh for a cat.
- Exercise. Staying active helps stimulate the intestines and keep things moving. If your constipated cat is also a couch potato, try Play Therapy.
- Stress Management. There is always an energetic or emotional component of any chronic disease, and stress plays a significant role in many gastrointestinal conditions. The essence remedy "Happy Tummy" was designed by SpiritEssence to help address the energetic underpinnings of constipation and other GI diseases.
- Fluid Therapy. Some cats do very well with occasional (daily to weekly) infusions of subcutaneous fluids. Your veterinarian or vet tech can show you how to do this at home. Give fluids whenever you notice your cat's behavior indicate oncoming constipation.
- Surgery. If there is damage to the nerves and muscles of the colon, a "sub-total colectomy" is the last resort. This surgery removes the colon, and joins the small intestine to the rectum. Unless and until the small intestine develops more colon-like functioning, the result is chronic diarrhea. However, the cat will be much more comfortable.
If your cat is chronically constipated, the most important thing for you to do is be observant. Look for early signs of constipation; straining, abdominal discomfort, decreasing appetite, etc. Be aware of how often the cat is defecating. If he does not produce adequate stool for more than 2-3 days, call your vet, or begin home treatments if you have established this routine. Kitty constipation is far easier to treat when it's caught early. If you wait, treatment will be far more expensive, and there is a greater chance of irreversible colon damage.
Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD) article http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=011
Canned food diet - Why cats need a canned food diet http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=whycatsneedcannedfood
Slipery Elm article at http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=slipperyelm
By Jean Hofve, DVM
From Little Big Cat
http://www.littlebigcat.com/index.php?action=library&act=show&item=constipatedcats
A surprising number of cats have problems with constipation (abnormal accumulation of feces and difficulty defecating), and similar but more serious conditions such as obstipation (complete obstruction of the colon by feces) and megacolon (damaged nerves and muscles in the colon causing an inability to defecate). Constipation is uncomfortable, even painful. Constipated cats may defecate (or try to) outside the litterbox, because they associate pain or discomfort with the box itself. Other signs of constipation include irritability, painful abdomen, lethargy, and poor appetite or even loss of appetite.
The colon, the last part of the intestinal tract, is a large muscular structure ending at the rectum. It contains most of the intestinal bacteria that reside in the gastrointestinal (GI) tract. These bacteria finish up the digestion of protein. By-products of this process include short-chain fatty acids that nourish the cells lining the colon. Some of these lining cells absorb water, while others secrete mucus to lubricate the stool and keep it moving along.
Most cats defecate about once a day. A constipated cat may only defecate every 2 to 4 days, or even less. Usually the stools are hard and dry, because their long stay in the colon allows for absorption of most of their water content. However, occasionally a constipated cat can appear to have diarrhea, because liquid stool is the only thing that can get around the stuck mass of feces.
Causes for pooping problems include neurologic problems, pelvic injury, obstruction (by hair, bones, etc.), and Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD). (See this article for more info on IBD.) A dirty litter box may cause a cat to avoid the box and become constipated by holding the stool too long. Hooded litterboxes are a particular problem because they hold odor in, potentially making the box environment extremely unpleasant for the cat.
In 15+ years of experience as a feline veterinarian, I have not seen constipation problems in cats who do not eat dry food. It's logical, therefore, to think that diet plays a significant role in development of the problem. (Since writing this article, I have heard from 2 readers whose cats developed constipation problems even on all-wet-food diets; so, it's not impossible, but happily it is fairly rare.) Some cats may need more fiber than is present in very low fiber diets such as most canned, raw and homemade diets.You can always add a pinch of fiber (ground flaxseeds and ground chia seeds, aka Salba, are reasonably palatable and work very well).
Indeed, the initial treatment for constipation is usually a change in diet. Historically, these cats have usually been put on high-fiber dry foods. Fiber modulates intestinal mobility. Depending on the type of fiber and the circumstances, fiber can either speed up or slow down digestion. It's therefore used for both constipation and diarrhea. Light, senior, and hairball foods all contain increased fiber, and there are also several medical high-fiber diets.
Usually the diet change helps, at least initially. However, eventually these foods often seem to lose their effectiveness over time. More fiber, such as canned pumpkin, may be added. Again, sometimes this produces a temporary improvement. Yet most of these cats continue to have problems.
Since fiber encourages water absorption and increases the amount of stool produced (because it is indigestible), many experts have swung the other way and are recommending "low-residue" diets to minimize stool volume. "Low-residue" means that the food is highly digestible and produces minimal waste. Cats digest protein and fat best, but there is controversy about carbohydrates; it is clear that many cats are carb-intolerant. By this theory, the best food would be high fat, high protein, and low fiber, as well as high moisture. One would think that such a food would also be low fiber, but that is not necessarily true. Eukanuba Low Residue dry food contains 4% fiber, which is fairly high. Most canned foods fit this description, as do most homemade diets. However, Eukanuba Low Residue manages to incorporate a large amount of carbohydrate, even in its canned food. Reading the label is an important skill to develop (learn more about it in this article).
Water balance is crucial in constipated kitties. Most vets will give constipated cats subcutaneous (or even intravenous) fluids to boost their hydration.
Treatment for constipation depends on the severity of the problem. For mild cases, occasional enemas may be all they need. For severe blockages, the cat must be anesthetized for manual extraction of the feces (a process my favorite tech graphically but accurately refers to as a "dig-out").
Once the cat is "cleaned out" by whatever means, it's wise to take steps to prevent the problem from recurring. Several options are available; an individual cat may need only one of these, while others need several or all of them.
- Canned or homemade diet. High-moisture diets keep the cat hydrated, and these diets are far more digestible – and produce far less waste – than dry food. Because canned and homemade diets tend to be extremely low in fiber, addition of a small amount of rice bran or powdered psyllium (available in bulk at most health food stores) is helpful.
- Water Fountain. Many cats will drink much more running water than they will ever take from a bowl. There are several types of pet fountains, from "cascades" to "waterfalls" to models that could be from Rome! I first noticed that my cats loved to drink from an inexpensive "feng shui" rock fountain from Bed, Bath & Beyond; but it was too hard to take apart and clean as often as was needed. We like the Drinkwell and PetMate brands.
- Lactulose. This is a sugary syrup that holds water in the stool and keeps the stool soft; therefore it's easier for the cat to pass. Cats are usually not fond of the taste. Fortunately, lactulose now comes in a mild-tasting powder (Kristalose) that can be encapsulated by a compounding pharmacy, or simply added to canned food.
Other stool softeners, such as DSS (docusate sodium). Your veterinarian can prescribe these.
- Petroleum Jelly. The primary ingredient in most over-the-counter hairball remedies (Laxatone, Kat-a-lax, Petromalt), petroleum jelly can be given to the cat by mouth. Most cats tolerate it, many cats come to like it, and a few even enjoy it. The Vaseline brand is, according to my cats, the tastiest; but other cats prefer one of the flavored hairball types. Give 1/3 to 1/2 teaspoon per day. It can also be mixed with a small amount of canned food. However, it can interfere with nutrient absorption so giving it on an empty tummy is best.
- Cisapride (Propulsid). This drug was withdrawn from the market for humans because of dangerous side effects, but it is considered safe for cats. Your vet can order it from a compounding pharmacy. It seems to work best in combination with stool softeners.
- Pediatric glycerin suppositories. Although they may not appreciate having a suppository pushed into their rectums, most cats tolerate it. Your vet can advise you on technique and frequency.
- Enemas. Many cat guardians have gotten good at giving enemas at home. Mineral oil, K-Y jelly, soapy water, and plain warm water are all fine; you may have to experiment to see which one works best for your particular cat.
- Slippery Elm Bark. This powdered herb can be added to canned food (add extra cool water) or made into a syrup. Its mild taste is well tolerated by most cats. See this article for more information. There are many herbal formulas available for people, but many herbs, such as Cascara sagrada, are too harsh for a cat.
- Exercise. Staying active helps stimulate the intestines and keep things moving. If your constipated cat is also a couch potato, try Play Therapy.
- Stress Management. There is always an energetic or emotional component of any chronic disease, and stress plays a significant role in many gastrointestinal conditions. The essence remedy "Happy Tummy" was designed by SpiritEssence to help address the energetic underpinnings of constipation and other GI diseases.
- Fluid Therapy. Some cats do very well with occasional (daily to weekly) infusions of subcutaneous fluids. Your veterinarian or vet tech can show you how to do this at home. Give fluids whenever you notice your cat's behavior indicate oncoming constipation.
- Surgery. If there is damage to the nerves and muscles of the colon, a "sub-total colectomy" is the last resort. This surgery removes the colon, and joins the small intestine to the rectum. Unless and until the small intestine develops more colon-like functioning, the result is chronic diarrhea. However, the cat will be much more comfortable.
If your cat is chronically constipated, the most important thing for you to do is be observant. Look for early signs of constipation; straining, abdominal discomfort, decreasing appetite, etc. Be aware of how often the cat is defecating. If he does not produce adequate stool for more than 2-3 days, call your vet, or begin home treatments if you have established this routine. Kitty constipation is far easier to treat when it's caught early. If you wait, treatment will be far more expensive, and there is a greater chance of irreversible colon damage.
Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD) article http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=011
Canned food diet - Why cats need a canned food diet http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=whycatsneedcannedfood
Slipery Elm article at http://www.littlebigcat.com/?action=library&act=show&item=slipperyelm
Solving kitty problems
Little Big Cat http://www.littlebigcat.com/
Consultations available.
Our Vision
"Little Big Cat was born out of our deep desire to keep cats in their homes instead of joining the 6 million cats who die in shelters every year, or becoming one of the 60 million abandoned, stray and feral cats living on the streets.
It happens all the time -- people reach the end of their rope with an unwanted cat behavior. Suddenly, it seems that there is nothing left but to get rid of the cat. People do not know there is help available, so they do not seek it. They "live with it," and let the problem go on until their relationship with their cat is damaged beyond repair.
We've both worked in shelters, and we've both euthanized healthy cats whose only crime was developing a bad habit. Relinquishing a cat is hard enough for the family, but for us to have to kill that cat is much worse. Little Big Cat was created to offer an alternative -- a way through and out of problems.
Since we started, our conviction that the work we're doing is needed has only deepened, and our commitment and enthusiasm continue to grow. If you feel the same way, please consider making a donation to help support our work.
We hope you enjoy exploring our website, that you learn something new about cat behavior or health today, and that you ever more deeply share our love and admiration for cats. Please visit us often - we're constantly adding and revising and updating! This is a learning process for everyone, and as we learn more, we want to share it with you..."
Consultations available.
Our Vision
"Little Big Cat was born out of our deep desire to keep cats in their homes instead of joining the 6 million cats who die in shelters every year, or becoming one of the 60 million abandoned, stray and feral cats living on the streets.
It happens all the time -- people reach the end of their rope with an unwanted cat behavior. Suddenly, it seems that there is nothing left but to get rid of the cat. People do not know there is help available, so they do not seek it. They "live with it," and let the problem go on until their relationship with their cat is damaged beyond repair.
We've both worked in shelters, and we've both euthanized healthy cats whose only crime was developing a bad habit. Relinquishing a cat is hard enough for the family, but for us to have to kill that cat is much worse. Little Big Cat was created to offer an alternative -- a way through and out of problems.
Since we started, our conviction that the work we're doing is needed has only deepened, and our commitment and enthusiasm continue to grow. If you feel the same way, please consider making a donation to help support our work.
We hope you enjoy exploring our website, that you learn something new about cat behavior or health today, and that you ever more deeply share our love and admiration for cats. Please visit us often - we're constantly adding and revising and updating! This is a learning process for everyone, and as we learn more, we want to share it with you..."
Feline kidney diseas (CKD)
Info about Chronic Kidney Disease (CKD)
From Catinfo.org by Dr. Lisa Pierson
"Kidney Disease (CKD - formerly called "CRF"): Chronic kidney disease is probably the leading cause of mortality in the cat. It is troubling to think about the role that chronic dehydration may play in feline kidney failure. And remember, cats are chronically dehydrated when they are on a diet of predominantly dry food. The prescription dry 'renal diets' such as Science Diet k/d - which is commonly prescribed by veterinarians - contain only a small amount of moisture leaving your cat in a less than optimal state of water balance.
I must say that I find it truly amazing when I hear about the very large numbers of cats receiving subcutaneous fluids while being maintained on a diet of dry food. This is extremely illogical and unhealthy and every attempt should be made to get these cats on a diet that contains a higher moisture content. Please also note the following list of the first four ingredients of Science Diet dry k/d after reviewing this section on reading a pet food label - and bearing in mind that your cat is a carnivore. This is a diet that would never find its way into a food bowl owned by any cat in my care. The first three ingredients are not even meat and the fourth ingredient is a by-product meal which is not necessarily an unhealthy source of protein but it would be nice to see some muscle meat ("chicken") in this product.
Brewers rice, corn gluten meal, pork fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), chicken by-product meal
The purpose of this prescription diet is to restrict protein which, unfortunately, it certainly does. However, please understand that there are no studies showing that restricting protein to this level will prevent further deterioration of kidney function. k/d restricts protein to the point that the cat will often catabolize (use for fuel) his own muscle mass which results in muscle wasting and weight loss. The level of protein in this diet is not only at an extremely low level, it is in an incomplete form for a carnivore. Note that it is made up mainly of plant proteins - not meat proteins."
Kidney Disease in Cats - Chronic Renal Failure
By Jean Hofve, DVM
From CatsofAustralia.com http://www.catsofaustralia.com/cat-kidney-disease.htm
Signs of Renal failure in cats. Increased thirst is often the first symptom
Kidney disease, in the form of chronic renal failure (CRF), is a common problem in older cats. I have seen kidney failure in cats as young as 4 years, but far more frequently in much older cats. The most noticeable symptom is an increase in water consumption and urination ("drink-a-lot, pee-a-lot syndrome"). A blood test should be done if you notice these symptoms, as there are several conditions that can cause this. The increase in drinking and urinating in CRF is due to loss of the kidney's ability to concentrate the urine. The kidneys have a very large reserve capacity, and symptoms of kidney failure are not seen until approximately 75% of kidney tissue is non-functional. In my experience, kidney failure is the most common cause of death in older cats.
Causes of Chronic Renal Failure
Recent research suggests a link between vaccination for feline distemper and immune-mediated inflammation of the kidneys, which is thought to be the cause of CRF. Annual boosters for distemper are completely unnecessary. Be sure to discuss all recommended vaccines with your veterinarian. A cat with kidney disease or kidney failure should not be vaccinated at all.
Long-term feeding of an all-dry-food diet is also suspected as a factor in Chronic Renal Failure. Cats' kidneys are highly efficient and adapted to life in the desert, where they would get most or all of their water from eating their prey. Cats eating dry cat food take in only half the water that cats on a canned or homemade diet get; this chronic dehydration can cause stress on the kidneys over time. Dry diets also predispose cats to lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD, LUTD, FUS, crystals, stones, cystitis) because they force such a high degree of urine concentration. Chronic or recurrent bladder disease may also be a factor in the development of CRF..."
Note: I disagree with her advice about feeding a low-protein diet.
Treatment of Chronic Renal Failure
Chronic kidney failure is progressive and incurable. No conventional or alternative medical treatment can reverse its course, since the disease involves the loss of kidney cells and replacement by scar tissue. The rate of progression in any individual cat probably cannot be slowed to any significant degree. When the process is advanced, the kidneys become small and lumpy, and the amount of functional tissue is greatly limited. The most significant problems caused by the loss of function are build-up of blood toxins, and anemia. These can cause weight loss, lethargy, vomiting, loss of appetite, weakness, and other signs of illness.
Some cats are able to maintain their body weight and live relatively comfortable lives for months to years, while others succumb to the disease more quickly. In conventional medicine, there are drugs that can minimize anemia, and phosphate binders to prevent phosphorus precipitates from further damaging the kidneys. However, these may not be palatable, and may cause adverse reactions. They are also of little or no value unless the cat is eating a restricted protein/low phosphorus diet exclusively. It may also be important to supplement potassium in the food.
Diet for Kidney Failure in Cats: The Protein Controversy
You may have heard that restricting protein is recommended for cats in kidney failure. Although this has been the "standard" treatment for decades, as far as cats are concerned, it has always been--and remains--very controversial. According to experts at Colorado State University's veterinary teaching hospital, restricted protein does not prevent kidney failure in a healthy cat, and has no effect on the ultimate progression of renal disease. Research also shows that even very high protein diets do not make renal failure worse in cats (although high protein does worsen the disease in dogs and humans). (One pet food maker recently completed a study it claims shows that its restricted-protein diet increases lifespan in CRF cats. However, because the study has not yet been published, it is impossible to evaluate the data, which is contradicted by other research.) The real culprit is actually phosphorus, which meat contains in large amounts. Decreasing phosphorus intake (by restricting protein) can help some cats feel better, so it may be worth a try in a symptomatic cat.
However, some studies have suggested that excessive restriction of protein may actually cause further damage to the kidneys and other organs, because there is not enough protein for normal body maintenance and repair. Experts say that these diets are not appropriate until the BUN (Blood Urea Nitrogen) is at least double what it should be normally (about 60-80 mg/dl).
Furthermore, there is one big problem with using the protein-restricted commercial diets: many cats don't like them, and won't eat them. Obviously, it does little good to provide a special diet if the cat is going to starve to death! Experts emphasize that it is much more important to feed the cat what he likes and will eat, and maintain weight and body condition, than to be overly concerned about protein content. (Please note that if you add any other protein source to the diet, it will completely negate any possible beneficial effect from the low-phosphorus renal diet. It is useless to feed both a renal diet and a normal protein food or meat-based treats at the same time.)
Let me say this again, because it is the single most important thing to know about CRF: feed the cat anything she will eat! IF THE CAT WON'T EAT IT, IT WON'T HELP THE CAT! Weight loss is your cat's worst enemy in this disease; so let the cat eat what she wants!
Because water balance is so crucial, it is best to feed a high-moisture diet to help keep the cat hydrated; do not feed only dry food. Feeding mostly or only canned food, even though it is high in phosphorus and protein, provides the moisture and calories that these cats need, in a very palatable form that most cats will happily eat. You can also get low-phosphorus renal diets in canned form. Dry cat food causes dehydration even in healthy cats, and is not appropriate for CRF cats (unless, of course, it's the only food he will eat!).
The best thing you can do is feed a home-prepared diet; but only if the cat will eat it! If the cat has never eaten homemade food, or does not have a hearty appetite, this is not a good time to make this switch! There are several good books on home cooking for animals, such as Dr. Pitcairn's Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, by Richard Pitcairn, DVM, and Susan Pitcairn. (Rodale Press. ISBN 075962432.) They discuss why a diet made from fresh, raw foods is important, and provide recipes, including a special recipe specifically designed for animals with kidney disease. Another excellent book is Home-Prepared Dog and Cat Diets: the Healthful Alternative by Donald R. Strombeck, DVM. (Iowa State University Press. ISBN 0813821495.) If you choose to use Dr. Strombeck's recipes, I suggest substituting 1 capsule of taurine (250 mg) for the canned clams, since clams do not contain enough taurine for proper maintenance.
Special Nutrition for Chronic Renal Failure
Several nutritional supplements may be helpful for cats with kidney disease. Omega-3 fatty acids have been shown to be beneficial in CRF. Antioxidants are also important. Both of these are contained in the highly digestible algae, Biosuperfood. A nutritional supplement called "Renafood" from Standard Process, is a good renal detoxifier and helps to maximize kidney function in cats. Give one or two a day. Most cats eat them readily if they are crushed into the food. Call Standard Process at 1-800-558-8740 to find a distributor in your area. Remember, though, that the basic diet is the most important factor in your cat's health, and no supplement will make up for poor quality nutrition. For more info on feeding, choosing a good food, and switching to a better diet, see the many nutrition articles in our Library.
Supplemental Fluids
Your veterinarian can give your cat subcutaneous fluids in the clinic, or teach you how to give them at home. This is the least intrusive and most beneficial treatment you can give your cat. Cats in chronic renal failure drink a lot of water, but they cannot drink enough to compensate for the loss of water through the kidneys. Subcutaneous fluids are an excellent way to help keep the toxins flushed out of the bloodstream and make the cat feel much better. If the cat is sick or not eating, it may be necessary to hospitalize it for a few days for intravenous fluid therapy, followed by subcutaneous fluids at home as needed. The recent development of a semi-permanent "port" that can be inserted in the cat's skin has taken much of the hassle out of this procedure; talk to your vet about having this installed. It is best to have this procedure done by a veterinarian who has lots of experience with these ports since there can be many complications.
Holistic Veterinary Care
While no treatment can create new kidney cells when scar tissue has already formed, homeopathy, herbs, flower essences or acupuncture may be able to help your cat feel better and live a better quality of life.
Article originally from Little Big Cat: www.littlebigcat.com
From Catinfo.org by Dr. Lisa Pierson
"Kidney Disease (CKD - formerly called "CRF"): Chronic kidney disease is probably the leading cause of mortality in the cat. It is troubling to think about the role that chronic dehydration may play in feline kidney failure. And remember, cats are chronically dehydrated when they are on a diet of predominantly dry food. The prescription dry 'renal diets' such as Science Diet k/d - which is commonly prescribed by veterinarians - contain only a small amount of moisture leaving your cat in a less than optimal state of water balance.
I must say that I find it truly amazing when I hear about the very large numbers of cats receiving subcutaneous fluids while being maintained on a diet of dry food. This is extremely illogical and unhealthy and every attempt should be made to get these cats on a diet that contains a higher moisture content. Please also note the following list of the first four ingredients of Science Diet dry k/d after reviewing this section on reading a pet food label - and bearing in mind that your cat is a carnivore. This is a diet that would never find its way into a food bowl owned by any cat in my care. The first three ingredients are not even meat and the fourth ingredient is a by-product meal which is not necessarily an unhealthy source of protein but it would be nice to see some muscle meat ("chicken") in this product.
Brewers rice, corn gluten meal, pork fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and citric acid), chicken by-product meal
The purpose of this prescription diet is to restrict protein which, unfortunately, it certainly does. However, please understand that there are no studies showing that restricting protein to this level will prevent further deterioration of kidney function. k/d restricts protein to the point that the cat will often catabolize (use for fuel) his own muscle mass which results in muscle wasting and weight loss. The level of protein in this diet is not only at an extremely low level, it is in an incomplete form for a carnivore. Note that it is made up mainly of plant proteins - not meat proteins."
Kidney Disease in Cats - Chronic Renal Failure
By Jean Hofve, DVM
From CatsofAustralia.com http://www.catsofaustralia.com/cat-kidney-disease.htm
Signs of Renal failure in cats. Increased thirst is often the first symptom
Kidney disease, in the form of chronic renal failure (CRF), is a common problem in older cats. I have seen kidney failure in cats as young as 4 years, but far more frequently in much older cats. The most noticeable symptom is an increase in water consumption and urination ("drink-a-lot, pee-a-lot syndrome"). A blood test should be done if you notice these symptoms, as there are several conditions that can cause this. The increase in drinking and urinating in CRF is due to loss of the kidney's ability to concentrate the urine. The kidneys have a very large reserve capacity, and symptoms of kidney failure are not seen until approximately 75% of kidney tissue is non-functional. In my experience, kidney failure is the most common cause of death in older cats.
Causes of Chronic Renal Failure
Recent research suggests a link between vaccination for feline distemper and immune-mediated inflammation of the kidneys, which is thought to be the cause of CRF. Annual boosters for distemper are completely unnecessary. Be sure to discuss all recommended vaccines with your veterinarian. A cat with kidney disease or kidney failure should not be vaccinated at all.
Long-term feeding of an all-dry-food diet is also suspected as a factor in Chronic Renal Failure. Cats' kidneys are highly efficient and adapted to life in the desert, where they would get most or all of their water from eating their prey. Cats eating dry cat food take in only half the water that cats on a canned or homemade diet get; this chronic dehydration can cause stress on the kidneys over time. Dry diets also predispose cats to lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD, LUTD, FUS, crystals, stones, cystitis) because they force such a high degree of urine concentration. Chronic or recurrent bladder disease may also be a factor in the development of CRF..."
Note: I disagree with her advice about feeding a low-protein diet.
Treatment of Chronic Renal Failure
Chronic kidney failure is progressive and incurable. No conventional or alternative medical treatment can reverse its course, since the disease involves the loss of kidney cells and replacement by scar tissue. The rate of progression in any individual cat probably cannot be slowed to any significant degree. When the process is advanced, the kidneys become small and lumpy, and the amount of functional tissue is greatly limited. The most significant problems caused by the loss of function are build-up of blood toxins, and anemia. These can cause weight loss, lethargy, vomiting, loss of appetite, weakness, and other signs of illness.
Some cats are able to maintain their body weight and live relatively comfortable lives for months to years, while others succumb to the disease more quickly. In conventional medicine, there are drugs that can minimize anemia, and phosphate binders to prevent phosphorus precipitates from further damaging the kidneys. However, these may not be palatable, and may cause adverse reactions. They are also of little or no value unless the cat is eating a restricted protein/low phosphorus diet exclusively. It may also be important to supplement potassium in the food.
Diet for Kidney Failure in Cats: The Protein Controversy
You may have heard that restricting protein is recommended for cats in kidney failure. Although this has been the "standard" treatment for decades, as far as cats are concerned, it has always been--and remains--very controversial. According to experts at Colorado State University's veterinary teaching hospital, restricted protein does not prevent kidney failure in a healthy cat, and has no effect on the ultimate progression of renal disease. Research also shows that even very high protein diets do not make renal failure worse in cats (although high protein does worsen the disease in dogs and humans). (One pet food maker recently completed a study it claims shows that its restricted-protein diet increases lifespan in CRF cats. However, because the study has not yet been published, it is impossible to evaluate the data, which is contradicted by other research.) The real culprit is actually phosphorus, which meat contains in large amounts. Decreasing phosphorus intake (by restricting protein) can help some cats feel better, so it may be worth a try in a symptomatic cat.
However, some studies have suggested that excessive restriction of protein may actually cause further damage to the kidneys and other organs, because there is not enough protein for normal body maintenance and repair. Experts say that these diets are not appropriate until the BUN (Blood Urea Nitrogen) is at least double what it should be normally (about 60-80 mg/dl).
Furthermore, there is one big problem with using the protein-restricted commercial diets: many cats don't like them, and won't eat them. Obviously, it does little good to provide a special diet if the cat is going to starve to death! Experts emphasize that it is much more important to feed the cat what he likes and will eat, and maintain weight and body condition, than to be overly concerned about protein content. (Please note that if you add any other protein source to the diet, it will completely negate any possible beneficial effect from the low-phosphorus renal diet. It is useless to feed both a renal diet and a normal protein food or meat-based treats at the same time.)
Let me say this again, because it is the single most important thing to know about CRF: feed the cat anything she will eat! IF THE CAT WON'T EAT IT, IT WON'T HELP THE CAT! Weight loss is your cat's worst enemy in this disease; so let the cat eat what she wants!
Because water balance is so crucial, it is best to feed a high-moisture diet to help keep the cat hydrated; do not feed only dry food. Feeding mostly or only canned food, even though it is high in phosphorus and protein, provides the moisture and calories that these cats need, in a very palatable form that most cats will happily eat. You can also get low-phosphorus renal diets in canned form. Dry cat food causes dehydration even in healthy cats, and is not appropriate for CRF cats (unless, of course, it's the only food he will eat!).
The best thing you can do is feed a home-prepared diet; but only if the cat will eat it! If the cat has never eaten homemade food, or does not have a hearty appetite, this is not a good time to make this switch! There are several good books on home cooking for animals, such as Dr. Pitcairn's Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, by Richard Pitcairn, DVM, and Susan Pitcairn. (Rodale Press. ISBN 075962432.) They discuss why a diet made from fresh, raw foods is important, and provide recipes, including a special recipe specifically designed for animals with kidney disease. Another excellent book is Home-Prepared Dog and Cat Diets: the Healthful Alternative by Donald R. Strombeck, DVM. (Iowa State University Press. ISBN 0813821495.) If you choose to use Dr. Strombeck's recipes, I suggest substituting 1 capsule of taurine (250 mg) for the canned clams, since clams do not contain enough taurine for proper maintenance.
Special Nutrition for Chronic Renal Failure
Several nutritional supplements may be helpful for cats with kidney disease. Omega-3 fatty acids have been shown to be beneficial in CRF. Antioxidants are also important. Both of these are contained in the highly digestible algae, Biosuperfood. A nutritional supplement called "Renafood" from Standard Process, is a good renal detoxifier and helps to maximize kidney function in cats. Give one or two a day. Most cats eat them readily if they are crushed into the food. Call Standard Process at 1-800-558-8740 to find a distributor in your area. Remember, though, that the basic diet is the most important factor in your cat's health, and no supplement will make up for poor quality nutrition. For more info on feeding, choosing a good food, and switching to a better diet, see the many nutrition articles in our Library.
Supplemental Fluids
Your veterinarian can give your cat subcutaneous fluids in the clinic, or teach you how to give them at home. This is the least intrusive and most beneficial treatment you can give your cat. Cats in chronic renal failure drink a lot of water, but they cannot drink enough to compensate for the loss of water through the kidneys. Subcutaneous fluids are an excellent way to help keep the toxins flushed out of the bloodstream and make the cat feel much better. If the cat is sick or not eating, it may be necessary to hospitalize it for a few days for intravenous fluid therapy, followed by subcutaneous fluids at home as needed. The recent development of a semi-permanent "port" that can be inserted in the cat's skin has taken much of the hassle out of this procedure; talk to your vet about having this installed. It is best to have this procedure done by a veterinarian who has lots of experience with these ports since there can be many complications.
Holistic Veterinary Care
While no treatment can create new kidney cells when scar tissue has already formed, homeopathy, herbs, flower essences or acupuncture may be able to help your cat feel better and live a better quality of life.
Article originally from Little Big Cat: www.littlebigcat.com
Preventing & managing feline diabetes
"Feline diabetes is not the natural fate of hundreds of thousands of pet cats world-wide. It is, rather, a human-created disease that is reaching epidemic proportions because of the highly artificial foods that we have been feeding our feline companions for the past few decades. Without the constant feeding of highly processed, high carbohydrate dry foods, better suited to cattle than cats, adult-onset feline diabetes would be a rare disease, if it occured at all."
Elizabeth Hodgkins DVM, JD
Please see YourDiabeticCat.com by Dr. Hodgkins.
From Your Diabetic Cat.com http://www.yourdiabeticcat.com/:
...As important as the proper management of feline diabetes is, it may be even more important that cat lovers learn to prevent this terrible disease in any cat with whom they ever share a home in the future. Diabetes in the cat is a man-made disease, which is completely preventable by avoiding the "kitty junk-food" that is dry kibbled cat food. Without question, it is the continuous, day-in, day-out consumption of this poor-quality, highly processed, carbohydrate rich "breakfast cereal for cats" that causes so many felines to become diabetic.
Many cats also become obese from such a terrible diet, but obesity does not cause diabetes, as some experts would have cat owners think. Rather, obesity and diabetes simply have the same cause, non-nutritious, high carbohydrate commercial cat food. To prevent both obesity and diabetes, we need only avoid such junk food when we feed our cats. Instead, we must feed the cat what it evolved to eat: meat. Fortunately, there are many canned and pouched cat foods, as well as many recipes for raw meat diets, that provide good quality nutrition of the obligatory carnivore that is the cat...
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